Copper Sinks Offer More Than Meets the Eye

Think copper sinks are cool? Apparently a lot of other homeowners think so, too.

Copper sinks are all the rage in kitchens and baths as decor mavens look for something new beyond the stainless or porcelain sinks that dominate today's showrooms.

Why copper? For one, the dark patinas complement the trend toward oil rubbed bronze hardware and deeper, richer natural countertop stones such as granite.

Many homeowners are drawn to the variable shades of copper that seem in a day-to-day state of flux. Paul Sacco, owner of Copperhead Sinks in Dallas, calls the ever-changing hues of copper a "living finish" that evolves over time as the metal oxidates.

In fact, most copper sinks sold today are dark because the effort and elbow grease needed to keep copper shiny is more maintenance than many homeowners want to endure.

Sacco equates the rising popularity of copper to where stainless was 10 to 12 years ago as steel began a climb up the popularity charts.

"Pretty soon, you'll see a lot more darker finishes like copper on the market," said Sacco, who operates a sink shop in Mexico where more than 400 designs of copper bath, kitchen and vanity sinks are created. People have warmed to a rich Tuscan look that spills over into Mediterranean and Southwest influences as well, he said.

Sacco said copper is usually hammered, bent or pounded into shape by hand. The surface is rarely smooth, but that can be a plus. Unlike many sinks of other materials where a scratch or dent sticks out like a sore thumb, minor flaws or scrapes in copper quickly oxidize and blend in with the surrounding metal.

But copper has other innate qualities beyond beauty. The acids in copper make its surface naturally antibacterial. Harmful bacteria such as e-coli can't survive more than a few hours on untreated copper. The healthful advantage is lost, however, if homeowners unnecessarily seal the surface with lacquer or other commercial sealants.

Sacco said sales of copper sinks have gone from 40 percent to 60 percent per month as interior designers and home magazines tout the upside of copper in the home.

Article Source: David Bradley

Bathroom Maintenance

Toilets
Most toilets are made of vitreous china, although other materials are occasionally used. There are many different styles of toilets, the most common being the two-piece. This type of toilet has two separate components, the bowl and the tank. For the most part, these units are generally inexpensive and replacement parts readily available.

One piece toilets, or siphon action toilets, are usually somewhat expensive. When flushed, the entire bowl surface is covered with water, however a quiet and smooth operation is associated with these units.

Toilet Maintenance

• Check for any signs of leakage at the water supply, the tank connection, the bowl, and the toilet connection to the drain.
  
• Make sure the toilet is tightly secured to the floor.
  
• Inspect the flush mechanism for proper operation.
  
• Be sure the toilet is ade-quately caulked to the floor.

TIP: Your drain plunger can become a more effective tool by smearing a little petroleum jelly around the edge of the suction cup. The jelly will create a better seal between the drain and the cup.


Bathtubs
Bathtubs can be either built-in or free standing. Typically they are made of enameled cast iron or steel, fiberglass or plastic. Some of the problems as-sociated with bathtubs are leaking water supply or drain connections, corrosion, and chipping of the enamel finish.

One option for providing an old tub with a new look is reglazing. This is a relatively new process and the results do not appear to be long lasting. The advantage of reglazing is that it can be done in place and is much less expensive than replacing the fixture.

Another common source of leakage is the intersection where the tub meets the enclosure. The enclosure may be ceramic tile, plastic, or simulated marble. Modern, one-piece fiberglass or acrylic enclosures are also available.

If properly installed, all of these materials are acceptable. To avoid problems, it is critical to keep the area where the tub meets the enclosure well sealed! Loose ceramic tile at the tub rim may be a sign of water penetration.

Bathtub Maintenance

• Occasionally check the underside of the bathtub for any signs of leakage or wood decay.
  
• Periodically inspect the tub surround for any signs of failure (loose tile, etc.).
  
• Keep the intersection of the tub and surround well sealed.
  

Sinks & Faucets
Bathroom sinks can be made of stainless steel, enameled steel, cast iron, vitreous china, plastic, marble, simulated marble, or a variety of other materials. All of these sinks are fairly reliable and each have their strengths and weaknesses. Leakage is the most common deficiency found with a faucet.

Faucets come in a variety of styles and quality. Regardless of the style, leakage is the most common problem discovered.

The popular compression faucet uses a washer to turn off the water when the washer is compressed against a seat. If water leaks out of the faucet this is usually an indication of a deteriorated washer. If water leaks from the handles it usually indicates deteriorated packing. Both of these problems are considered minor and are inexpensive to repair.

Modern faucets use a valve, cartridge, or ball to direct the flow of water. These mixing valves allow the control of hot and cold water, and the volume of water with a single handle.

Sink& Faucet Maintenance

• Periodically inspect under the sink for signs of leakage from the water supply lines and the drain piping.
  

Ventilation
If a bathroom does not have an operable window an exhaust fan is usually required. Although fans are not required when a window is present, they are beneficial. It is unlikely that a person would open a window every time they took a shower.

Heavy concentrations of moisture in an unvented bathroom can lead to mildew damage on the walls and ceilings.

The exhaust from the fan should discharge to the exterior of the building to prevent excessive moisture build-up in the attic.

Flooring

• Check for loose, cracked or missing ceramic tile.
  
• Inspect for deteriorated or missing tile grout.
  
• Be sure the edges of resilient flooring are kept well sealed.
  
• Keep the joint between the tile and the tub/shower well sealed to prevent water damage to the subfloor.

Article Source: All Bay

Dos and Don'ts of Cleaning Your Stainless Steel Sink

• Do...It is best to rinse stainless sinks thoroughly after each use. Thorough rinsing can be done by running the water for a few minutes and rubbing the cleaned area with a sponge.
  
• Do...Avoid exposing stainless sink to strong chemicals, such as paint removers, oven cleaners, etc. If contact occurs, quickly flush the surface with water.
  
• Do...Run cold water when pouring boiling water into sinks to try to minimize temperature shock. With stainless it isn't as important to remember that compared to other materials though.
  
• Do...Towel dry after each use to prevent mineral deposits from building up on the surface of the sink (although with a good quality stainless sink you can buff it back to the original "new" finish even after many years of scale and mineral build-up.
  
• Do...Scour the sink once a week, being sure to rub in the direction of the satin finish lines (best not to purchase a "mirror" finish).
  
• Do...Remove nail polish with a non-acetone based nail polish remover and flush with water.
  

• Don't...Allow food or beverage residue, or metal canned products to remain on sink surface.
  
• Don't...Cut directly on sink surfaces.
  
• Don't...Set hot pans directly into sinks.
  
• Don't...Scour the sink across the satin finish lines. Scouring across the satin finish lines can damage the original sink finish.
  
• Don't...Allow liquid soap or other household cleansers to dry on the surface of the sink. Most brands contain chemical additives, which will affect the finish.
  
• Don't...Leave standing solutions of chlorine bleach and water in the sink for extended periods of time. Chlorides, which are found in most soaps, detergents, bleaches, and cleansers, are very aggressive to stainless steel. If left on the sink too long they can cause surface pitting.
  
• Don't...Use a steel wool pad to clean your sink. Steel wool pads have a tendency to break apart and small particles of steel can become embedded in the surface of the sink. The steel particles will rust and will give the appearance that the sink itself is rusting.
  
• Don't...Use rubber mats or dishpans in the sink to protect the finish. Leaving rubber mats or dishpans in the sink can lead to surface rust or possible pitting. However, if you do use mats or dishpans please remove them after each use.
  
• Don't...Leave wet sponges, cloths, or cleaning pads on the sink. This can lead to surface rust.

Article Source: Plumbing World

Care and Maintenance Tips for Solid Surface

• Regular cleaning is easy using a non-abrasive cleaner and a damp cloth or sponge. If the product has a factory matte finish, then abrasive cleaners may be used. Follow the manufacturer's recommendations.
  
  
• Prompt clean up of spills will minimize even stubborn stains such as food dye, tea, fruit drinks, and some juices. For stubborn stains on polished surfaces, use full strength bleach for two to five minutes followed by a general cleaner, then flushed with water. On a matte finish, follow the same procedure or use a bleaching abrasive cleaner.
  
  
• Cigarette burns on the surface are usually a nicotine stain or scorch that can be easily removed by cleaning with an abrasive cleaner or buffing with a plastic (not metal), abrasive household sponge.
  
  
• Never set hot pans directly on a solid surface. Use a trivet or potholder to protect the top. Using your countertop for a cutting board will result in unnecessary damage that may require professional repair.
  
  
• Repairing superficial scratches is a breeze on solid surface products. Sand lightly with 350 grit sandpaper or buff with a plastic (not metal) household sponge. Deep scratches or chips should always be removed professionally.

Article Source: ICPA

Solid Surface Countertops

Solid surface countertops have been available for over 25 years. They are a product of the plastics industry. Plastics, in one form or another, dominate the kitchen and bath countertop industry. The vast majority of plastic countertops are made from thin sheets of plastic laminated to wood or wood by-product substrates. Solid surface countertops are simply that, they are solid plastic.

The solid nature of these materials offers distinct advantages. Colors and patterns are solid throughout the material. These solid surface materials have many of the same properties of wood, which allows them to be shaped and molded into countless shapes and figures. Because the material is plastic, special adhesives allow separate pieces of the material to be welded to one another to make one solid piece. These adhesives actually cause the plastic molecules of one piece to interlock with the molecules of the other piece.

Solid surface countertops do have distinct differences. Different materials are made from different plastics. Some materials are primarily acrylic while others are a blend of acrylic and polyester plastics. Those solid surface materials which have a high content of acrylic plastic seem to have higher performance standards.

Your concerns about durability are, for the most part, groundless. These materials have excellent characteristics. They have great impact resistance. Virtually all of them are nonporous, so they are unaffected by food and liquid stains. These nonporous surfaces also inhibit the growth of bacteria, mold, and germs.

A unique property of these solid surface materials is their ability to be easily repaired. Scratches can be buffed out by hand. Cigarette burns can be sanded away. Severe damage to the surfaces can also be repaired in virtually all instances. To the best of my knowledge, no other countertop material can make similar claims.

Solid surface countertops do have a slight drawback. Excessive, concentrated heat can damage the surfaces. However, this problem is frequently overcome with the use of decorative trivets made from the scrap material from the sink and cooktop cutouts.

You do have other alternatives, however, no single one seems to have as many advantages as solid surface materials. Natural stone products, such as marble and granite, can be difficult to repair. Solid color laminate plastics offer fewer advantages, yet cost virtually the same as solid surface materials.

Artificial stone products, because of their composition, do not seem to perform as well as the plastics. Remember, as with many other things, you get what you pay for!

Article Source:Ask the Builder

10 Uses for Beeswax

1. Unstick a drawer. A thin coat of beeswax on wooden rails makes the wood drawers on Granny’s old bureau slide smoothly. It does windows, too. Use wax to lubricate sashes.
   
2. Free frozen nuts. Help loosen a rusted nut by lubricating the bolt’s threads with melted wax.
   
3. Wax wood. For structural elements that need to look good but take no wear (such as exposed ceiling beams), heat equal parts beeswax, linseed oil, and turpentine. Apply with a burlap rag while the mixture is still warm.
   
4. Preserve bronze. To ward against oxidation caused by moist air, brush on a solution of 1/3 pound beeswax melted in 1 quart turpentine. Buff it with a towel to create a thin, hard coat.
   
5. "Whip" frayed rope. Wrap a waxed length of string tightly around the rope’s tip about a dozen times. Tie off the loose end and trim the excess.
   
6. Lube screws. Georgia Beekeepers’ Association president Robert Brewer rubs wax over the threads of screws to make them drive smoothly and resist corrosion.
   
7. Condition a wood cutting board. Add a half-teaspoon beeswax to a cup of mineral oil, microwave until the wax melts, and apply the mixture to the board with a soft cloth.
   
8. Polish concrete counters. Give a sealed, dark concrete countertop a muted, natural luster by rubbing melted beeswax over the surface with a chamois cloth. Let it dry and then wipe, says Fred Hueston, director of the National Training Center for Stone and Masonry Trades.
   
9. Preserve a patina. Seal a copper sink by rubbing it with softened beeswax and polishing off the excess with a lint-free rag, says Shane Jost, owner of Mountains Edge Copperart.
   
10. Waterproof leather. Combine equal parts beeswax, tallow, and neatsfoot oil (available online). Warm the mixture and use a rag to rub it on your work boots or gloves.

Article Source: TheOldHouse

Fiber Facts for Carpet

The type of fiber used determines the basic performance and appearance of the carpet. The fiber content is usually listed on a specification sheet on the back of the sample. Although there are dozens of different trade names, remember that products fall within one of five basic categories.

1. Wool
   is the luxury and performance benchmark. It is softer than synthetics, is exceptionally durable and offers great stain resistance. But at $50 to $100 per square yard, it's not cheap. It accounts for only 3 percent of carpet sales.
   
2. Nylon
   is a close second to wool in terms of durability and feel, but on average it costs a lot less ($18 to $35 per square yard). It has excellent soil resistance, colorfastness and resilience. Nylon accounts for nearly 60 percent of carpet sales. Some new offerings feature added wear and stain resistance. Others have carbon-composite nylon filaments woven into the yarn that eliminate shocks. Some of these enhanced nylons cost as much as wool.
   
3. Olefin, or polypropylene,
   is both durable and water- and stain-resistant, making it a good choice for berbers (low, loop-pile carpeting) and indoor/outdoor carpeting, and in commercial settings. Because it is less resilient than nylon, it is best used in low-pile carpets; otherwise, it can mat or crush. It costs $9 to $16 per square yard.
   
4. Polyester
   is noted for its soft hand, or texture, especially when used in a luxurious thick pile. It has good color retention and soil resistance, but it's not as resilient as nylon. It runs $11 to $19 per square yard.
   
5. Acrylic
   offers the look and feel of wool, at a lower price—$10 to $15 per square yard. But because the fiber tends to fuzz and pill, it's not typically found in room-size carpets. This moisture- and mildew-resistant fiber is usually found in bathroom rugs.

Article Source: ThisOldHouse

How To Clean The Kitchen In 15 Minutes

A day can be completely eaten up by cleaning a kitchen. After breakfast, lunch, and supper, your kitchen can look like a disaster area in need of federal attention. We all know that if we leave our dishes and countertops until the morning, we need an ice pick to scrape off dried on food. After a long day few of us want to spend an hour scrubbing a room that is just going to need it again in 8 hours. Use this method to keep your kitchen running smoothly without making you feel rundown.

1. Grab all of your needed supplies together
   Don't underestimate the value of this step. Trying to find cleansers, dishcloths, sponges, etc. not only eats up time, but increases the risks of distractions that let you forget what you were working on in the first place. Gather all supplies together before you begin.
   
   
2. Run a sink of hot, soapy water.
   If you have a double sink with a garbage disposal on one side, make sure to use the disposal-free side. Keeping the disposal side free will allow you to scrape leftovers down the drain quickly while you work.
   
   
3. Scrape off all the dishes into the trash or garbage disposal.
   If step 2 has blocked your disposal, scrape the dishes off onto a dirty plate.
   
   
4. Place dishes that need to soak into the water.
   Try to choose the dishes that are going to give you or your dishwasher the most trouble to get clean. Put the heavily soiled dishes on the bottom. Large dishes like pans and bowls can be filled with hot soapy water and set on the counter to soak.
   
   
5. While the dishes are soaking, go through the kitchen clearing out trash from your floor, countertops, cupboards, etc.
   Don't worry about things that are out of place, or don't belong in the kitchen. Worry only about trash.
   
   
6. Move on to gathering all the items that do not belong in the kitchen. Put all these items into a basket (see supplies).
   If you have a helper (willing or unwilling) send them off to put away these items. Do not stop working on the kitchen to take these misplaced items to their homes.
   
   
7. Put away all of the items that belong in the kitchen but are not in their proper places.
   Don't allow yourself to get distracted by rearranging cabinets, drawers, etc. Simply place the items that are out back where they belong.
   
   
8. Load the dishwasher or wash by hand.
   If you do not have a dishwasher or don't like to use one, this process of cleaning the dishes may take more time. If possible grab a couple of other people and form a wash, rinse, dry and put away assembly line. This is a great way to catch up with family members. Empty the dirty water and scrape the plate of food off into the disposal if it was previously blocked. Add the plate to the dishwasher.
   
   
9. Wash down your countertops, appliances, and sink.
   Rinse out sponges and rags. If needed put them in the dirty clothes. We're not heavy duty cleaning here. I literally mean wash down the visible surfaces. Don't open the microwave and scrub it out. We're not cleaning the crumbs out of the toaster. Quickly wipe it down.
   
   
10. Sweep and mop, or vacuum.
    
11. Take out the trash
    If the trash is full, or tomorrow is trash day, take the trash outside and reline the trash container so that it is ready for tomorrow's trash.

What You Need:

1. Trash container.
   
2. Basket for stuff that doesn’t belong in the kitchen.
   
3. Dish soap.
   
4. Other cleaners you normally use.
   
5. Dishrag or sponge.
   
6. Scrubber for stuck on food.
   
7. Broom, mop, or vacuum.

Tips:

1. The more people you have who live and eat in your home, the more time this process is going to take. But, you have an advantage, more people to make messes means more people to clean them up. Make cleaning up the kitchen after dinner a family affair. Divide the steps between your family members, and you really can have the kitchen done in a short time.
   
2. Train your family members to clear and rinse their own plates after each meal. This simple act takes little time for each person, but saves so much time for the dish person later.
   
3. Run a sink of hot soapy water before food preparation begins. As mixing bowls, cutting boards, knives, etc, become dirty, quickly wash them out to prevent food from drying and sticking.
   
4. Create some "Family Clean up CD" and let each person contribute a favorite song. Kid's will be a lot more likely to help out if they feel they have some input into the job. Letting them choose the music can go a long way.
   
5. This quick cleanup is designed for daily maintenance. It can also be used for a fast fix when unexpected company is on the way. Doing this routine will not substitute for the inevitable need to clean more deeply on a regular basis.

Article Source: Sarah Aquirre

Stainless Steel Bath Sinks

Stainless steel sinks are not just for the kitchen anymore.

Some renovators are using this cool gray metal to bring a rustic, industrial design to the bathroom.

Who's Buying Them?
The trend is catching on in urban areas, where loft buildings create the perfect backdrop for this industrial metal. Others want a unique, cutting edge look for a high end contemporary home.

How to Blend It
Put a stone texture solid surface countertop underneath as a way to add contrast between a natural look material and a shiny metal bowl.

Why Stainless?
Stainless steel is considered very durable and easy to maintain, features that make it easy to adapt to the kitchen and bathroom. "Stainless has been a versatile material -- it doesn't chip, it doesn't stain," said Bruce Keclik, director of product development for Just Manufacturing, a sink, faucet and accessories manufacturer in Franklin Park, IL.

The shiny metal also reflects light. Since there typically is lighting over the sink, the metal will add a subtle sparkle to the room when the lighting is on.

"It's a different look for people," Keclik said. "I think the colors have somewhat run their course in the home and people are looking for something different."

How to Design with Stainless?
Those who are considering stainless should realize that it is a unique look and one that fits a contemporary design. While it can be blended into more traditional designs, the look has the clean lines that characterize contemporary.

Begin by deciding just how much stainless you want. Consider:

• A countertop for one sink or two?
  
• An all stainless countertop and sink?
  
• A wood, stone, solid surface or laminate countertop with a stainless sink?
  
• A polished or brushed stainless sink? Or, a combination of the two?
  
• A his and her setting -- two separate single bowls placed in separate sections of the bathroom?

Other Tips
When using stainless for the counter and sink, make sure the two pieces are made of the same gauge of stainless steel. Otherwise, the sink and countertop may look different when placed next to each other, said Jim Brunetti, owner of Avenue Metal Manufacturing in Chicago, which makes custom sinks, countertops, walls and other products.

This design can be achieved by dropping a sink into a countertop opening or by having the two pieces welded together.

Article Source: Renovators Place

Define Your Kitchen Island Personality

The Family Gathering Place Island
One of the most popular island designs is the large island for family meals. This type of island requires plenty of space -- often 4-feet by 6-feet or larger -- and a durable countertop. Here are some optional additions:

• 4 to 6 seats
• A microwave, small refrigerator, a warming or cooling drawer.
• A wine rack or cooler.

The Party Island
If large social gatherings are part of your personality, then add an island that will draw people to gather, sit and chat. Try a unique island shape, such as a 5 or 6-sided island that allows many people to gather round. Consider adding:

• A elegant countertop.
• Stylish pendant lights that dangle over the countertop.
• A small refrigerator and/or wine cooler.
• A veggie sink and warming drawer for appetizers.

The True Cook's Island
If cooking is your passion, then an island can become a full-fledged chef's center for the family or a baking station or a grand food prep area. Depending on the kitchen design, place the island in a central location between the main oven and refrigerator and the eating area. Optional features include:

• A veggie sink.
• A cooktop.
• A warming drawer.
• A nearby double wall oven.

Article Source: Renovators Places